Beating the Crowd at Borough Market

Tomatos Galore at Jubilee Market

"That's it!  Get me the hell out of here," I said to Rob. 

We had been for one of our long walks a few weekends back and had stumbled upon what we later learned was the Borough Market.  Rob loves to cook and I love to eat so in we went.  It was a Saturday morning and the market was packed with Londoners and plenty of tourists.  I hate crowds, not so much because I get claustrophobic, but because I hate people getting in my way.  I like to walk at my pace not the pace of the human cattle herd.  And, when that inevitable single human herd member totally oblivious to the rest of the herd around them stops in the narrow pathway to read a text, chat to a friend or read a map, my blood pressure spikes and I fear for their life.

We had already found it impossible to get anywhere near most of the stands to sample the goods.  A photo was impossible because a head was always popping into the picture.  I'd been using my arm like a crowbar to pry a path through and then that human cow did it.  She was 30 something, maybe Italian and right in front of me.  We were crammed in a narrow aisle between two opposing stands and a pillar and the next thing I knew, dead stop and the mobile in her hand comes up to her face.  A text had arrived!

I controlled my urge to accidentally elbow her in the back and made my plea to Rob.  We fled down the road toward nearby Clink Street.  The notorious London prison, owned by the Bishop of Winchester and for which the street was named, was located there from the early 1100s until 1780.  The sight of the prison museum reminded me of the consequences of following through on the idea that flashed through my head when that cow slammed on the brakes.

Anyway, we carried on home with a plan to return one day.  

London has a slew of markets.  There are the long established markets like Borough Market and there are others like the one down the street from us and the other around the corner from us.  They all have their days and all have their own mix of vendors.

I had been wanting to check out the Bermondsey Antique Market since we arrived in London.  That market is only open on Fridays and it opens at 4 am and runs until about 1pm.  Having not been before and having been disappointed with my early start at the Battersea Car Boot Sale last week, I was planning an arrival for a more civilised time.  

Jubilee Market Before the Crowd

I figured, I'd get there about 10 am and then head over to Bankside for the 12 noon opening of Borough Market.  It was time for that second chance.  Perhaps, the crowds wouldn't be so bad on a Friday.  

At 9 am I set out for my walk to Bermondsey.  I got there a little after 10 and had a good look around.  I learned that Bermondsey isn't a huge market, but it has potential and I may be back earlier next time.  Anyway, forty-five minutes later I was ready to head off.

I was going to have to kill some time now because Borough wasn't far away.  I strolled off down Bermondsey Street and along St Thomas St.  It was a lovely walk down some of London's oldest streets.  I came across London Glassblowing.  I love glass.  So could not resist going in.  They had some beautiful pieces and better still they blow glass on site.  I spent a good twenty minutes watching them create.  And, then I continued on my way.  

Shard Above Green Market

Borough Market is one of London's oldest markets having opened some time before the 12th century, when mention of it was first recorded.  It was moved to its present location in the 1700s.  A lot of buildings have come and gone around this area since and today it sits in the shadow of London's newest and tallest skyscraper, The Shard. 

I planned to have a coffee close by the market while I waited for it to open.  I remembered there were lots of little cafes and restaurants in the surrounding streets.  To my surprise and good luck, the market was already open when I got there.  Borough Market is split into two markets Green Market and Jubilee Market.  I turned into Green Market first.  It was great.  No crowds.  I could get close to the vendors' stands and even try the samples.  There were loads of tasty samples.

I tried a few wonderful olive oils.  I was offered a cheese sample, but I'm not one for strong cheeses.  If I was though this would be the place to be.  I tried some hummus and bought some.  I tried some basil pesto and bought some.  I came across a stand piled high with breads of all sorts.  I bought a loaf of rustic Italian corn bread and a spelt loaf.  I was on a roll, but it wasn't really like me.  I must have had market fever.

Cinnamon Chocolate Hazelnut Balls and more

I made my way down past the Argentine empanadas stand where there were a lot of prepared foods waiting for the lunch crowd.  As I made my way back toward the Green Market exit, I was offered a little treat from a confectionary vendor.  It was small round, a little bigger than a marble and looked to be chocolate.  I popped it in my mouth.  Hmm, chocolate and cinnamon and hazelnut - better not buy any of that or I'll gain back the 15 kilos I lost over the past year.

Fish on Offer at Jubilee Market

I carried on over the road to the Jubilee Market.  This part of the market has more to offer in the way of fresh fruit and vegetables, seafood, butchery fare and beer and wine.  Now, you have to understand.  I'm not really a produce shopper.  I do the shopping, but each morning I ask what it is I'm supposed to get.  It drives Rob spare, but otherwise we'd be having pasta or pizza every night.  I'm more a food eater, not a creator.  And, even as an eater, I'm a bit of a neophyte.  Rob and my friend Michelle both take credit for getting me to anything green.  The truth is they are both right, I think.  Michelle introduced broccoli and Rob asparagus, if I remember correctly.

Thumpers at Wild Foods

Once introduced properly though I now quite enjoy eating a much greater variety of foods than I once did.  So, while I didn't know much about what to do with what I was seeing it all looked delicious.  The fish stand was amazing, but I could identify only about half the fish on display.  The wild foods stand was...  let's say,  'interesting'.   The rabbits hanging by their sign left no doubt as to what the meat was.   I prefer my meat a little less identifiable.  The organic veggies were luscious, although I can't say I knew what all of them were.

Then there was that huge paella that was being prepared in the corner of one of the stands.  That something I could relate to.  It looked yummy, but was not finished yet.  I carried on exploring.  I was amazed by the number of English beers that are available at one stand.  Then, I passed the paella again.  This time rather than creating the woman behind it was handing out samples on little plastic spoons.  It was really good.  

Making Paella at Jubilee Market

Suddenly, I wasn't feeling so comfortable.  No, it wasn't the food.  It was something else, but what?

And, there it was, the crowd.  I checked my watch and it was a little past noon.  I reckon the lunch crowd had suddenly merged with the tourist crowd who had timed their arrival for the opening time given on the website.

There were still a few things I wanted to get back on the Green Market side, but now I was going to have to fight the crowd.  Damn!

I rushed back over to that side passing the spot where the Italian woman with the mobile phone had driven us out previously.  Fortunately, the herd had not yet formed.  I quickly bought a few more things and headed out.  As I passed that tempting confectionary stand with the wonderful little marbles, I was confronted by a man holding a large basket of yummy looking nougat like pieces covered in green - goody - more samples.  Why not?

Pistachio & other Turkish Delight at Green Market

I popped it in my mouth. Beautiful.  "What's that," I asked.  "Pistachio Turkish delight," was the reply.  I bought £5 worth.  I know, but Turkish delight doesn't seem as fattening as chocolate, besides I'd never heard of pistachio Turkish delight.

I made my way to the Green Market exit and decided I needed one more thing.  So, it was back to Jubilee.  I bought some of that paella for lunch and I was on my way.  I had survived.

When I got home, I unpacked my bag.  I had hummus, pesto, pistachio Turkish delight, some new breads to try, paella for lunch, some very large cheese twists, a bottle of white truffle oil and a bottle of pumpkin seed oil.  I bought the oils because I liked the samples.  I wonder what Rob's going to use them for?

Will I be back at Borough Market?  For sure, especially now that I know the secret to beating the herd to market!